Mole Traps: What You’re Looking At in the Photo
The tool in your image appears to be a spring-loaded, scissor/jaw-style mole trap made of heavy metal. This type is designed to be set over an active mole tunnel so that when the mole moves through, the mechanism triggers and closes.

What Moles Do (And Why Lawns Get Damaged)
Moles are underground insect-eaters that create tunnel systems while hunting for food. The most visible signs are:

• Raised ridges in the lawn (shallow surface tunnels)
• Molehills (piles of soil pushed up from deeper tunnels)
• Soft, uneven ground where tunnels collapse underfoot

Important note: Moles usually damage lawns indirectly by tunneling, not by eating grass roots.

How Mole Traps Work (In Simple Terms)
Most mole traps are built around the same idea: detect movement in an active tunnel and trigger a fast-closing mechanism. Key points:

• Effectiveness depends on placement over an active runway, not random soil
• The goal is to intersect a tunnel the mole is using repeatedly
• Traps generally perform best when the tunnel system is clearly identified

Common Types of Mole Traps

• Scissor/Jaw traps (like the photo): Clamp shut when triggered by tunnel movement
• Harpoon/spike traps: Drive spikes downward when triggered (often requires careful handling)
• Choker loop traps: Tighten around the mole when it passes through
• Tunnel traps (enclosed): Trigger inside a tube-like housing, sometimes viewed as safer to handle around pets/kids

Safety First (Especially With Spring-Loaded Traps)
Because these traps store a lot of force, treat them like a powerful spring tool.

• Keep fingers away from the jaws and trigger area at all times
• Wear thick gloves to protect hands and improve grip
• Keep away from children and pets; store locked or out of reach
• Do not test-fire or handle casually—accidental triggering can cause injury
• If you are not experienced, consider enclosed tunnel-style traps or professional help for safer setup

Placement Basics (High-Level, No Guesswork)
To avoid wasted time, focus on where the mole is actually traveling:

• Look for straight, consistently raised ridges (often main travel routes)
• Identify fresh activity (new soil, newly raised tunnels)
• Avoid placing traps in old, collapsed, or inactive tunnels

Common Mistakes That Make Traps “Not Work”

• Setting traps where tunnels are inactive
• Disturbing the area too much (excess digging can change mole behavior)
• Putting traps near molehills that are not connected to main runways
• Expecting instant results without confirming ongoing tunnel use

Humane and Lower-Risk Alternatives
If you want to avoid lethal trapping or reduce risk:

• Professional wildlife/pest control (often fastest and safest)
• Barrier methods for gardens (hardware cloth/mesh under beds)
• Habitat reduction: reducing grub populations can sometimes lower mole activity (moles may still tunnel for earthworms)
• Tolerance/repair strategy: rolling and reseeding damaged turf, especially when activity is seasonal

Legal and Ethical Considerations
Rules vary by location. Before using any trap:

• Check local guidelines on wildlife control and trap types
• Use methods that minimize suffering and avoid non-target animals
• Prioritize safety and responsible handling

Aftercare: Fixing the Lawn Once Activity Drops

• Flatten ridges by gently rolling or tamping soil
• Water lightly to help soil settle, then overseed thin patches
• Improve turf resilience with proper mowing height and seasonal fertilization

Bottom Line
A mole trap like the one shown can be effective, but success depends on correct tunnel identification and safe handling. If safety is a concern—especially around kids or pets—consider enclosed traps or professional assistance.